All while you try to keep those washers on the screws! If they fall off at any point, you'll have to take the motherboard out, put them back on the screw s , and repeat. So try not to do it, eh? Tilt the case onto its right side where the hard drive connector would be so that you can reach the screws underneath.
Angle the back of the motherboard into the case and push it all the way to the rear of the case. Now, untape one of those rear CPU screws and point it into its hole. Give it a few twists to hold it in place and thread the other one in. Now, while carefully holding the motherboard and those untaped screws, lower the motherboard until more screws hold you up and get them into their holes. Don't let those washers fall out! When it's all said and done you'll have screws poking through those holes.
Tape the heads back to the case so they don't fall out. Now press on the motherboard around the screws. It should be solid at each screw. If not you'll need to get back to those washers and pop another one on. But if it's all nice and immobile throw two washers onto each GPU screw, one onto each CPU screw, and head to the next step! Now we get to mess with those screws one more time before the tape gets taken off for good. A paper-thin coat will be good.
If you're using a silver-based paste, make sure you don't put on a ton because if it gets onto anything the silver's conductivity will mess with the other components. Pick whichever heatsink you wanna put on first. The easiest way to get this right is to look at the smudge marks on the heatsinks, and match 'em with their processors.
When you thread the screws on start each one off lightly, then get them up tightly. Try to get them evenly tightened to avoid having too much pressure on one side of the processor and too little on another.
When it's all done right the heatsinks should not move at all. Now we get to test it out! Otherwise you won't be turning it on. Turn it on without the fans plugged in, checking to see how fast the heatsinks heat up. Getting hot in less than a minute is excellent. Now plug in the fans and put on that plastic fan shroud. Turn it on again and it should boot up normally, assuming you did the heat test if you didn't plug in the DVD drive, the center LED will blink green.
If it goes RRoD instead, unplug the power cable, re-insert it and try again. If you cannot get the console to boot, press down on both the heatsinks with even force and power it on again. If it boots, power it on with only one heatsink pressed upon.
If it boots with that particular heatsink pressed on, power the off and keep re-booting until you find the problem corner s on the heatsink that needs tightening. The idea is to tighten any heatsink corners that aren't tight enough in order to allow a good connection for that processor.
So if it boots up normally and you can play a game for at least an hour without it locking up, you've worked your magic and the can be re-assembled! Now that you've resurrected your console, what can you do to prevent such a travesty from happening again? As you see in the main photo, I attached a small fan from a PCI graphics card onto the CPU heatsink and wired it into the 's fan power supply. With it pushing air through the heatsink or pulling it in if that's your view the air coming out of the exhaust is actually cool!
You have been warned. Since there's no room to easily add a fan to the GPU heatsink, the next best thing you can do is optimize airflow. While the has dual exhaust fans, most of the airflow goes to the CPU heatsink. By adding cardboard to the fan shroud and covering the top of the GPU heatsink as depicted, you can improve airflow even more as you've just devoted a whole fan to it. And if you really don't like the stock fans in the you can always buy 3rd party replacements. I can't say anything on quality as I haven't used one, but they seem to be quite popular.
Thanks to both those sites for all the info that I mixed and matched to create this tutorial. Oh yeah, and a special thanks to Cheerios for providing better airflow than Microsoft could. Instructables FTW! Professor Jake "Biggs" Turner. More clearly: Microsoft designed the look of the Xbox and then figured out how to fit the console's guts inside, which can be risky.
Though game consoles are designed to be pretty enough for a living room home theater, their design is also based on heat management. These things are computers. If you pack a computer in a tight box, it's far more likely to overheat. Before selling the Xbox to the public, Microsoft had run the console through various tests, from heat to longevity to cold to movement, and plenty of others.
The Red Ring of Death problem was apparently something they didn't come across. It was only when consoles started coming in as returns that Microsoft began to see the scope of the issue. It wasn't until the release of the remodeled Xbox "S" model in that the console was really fixed, despite years of attempts with behind-the-scenes chip changes. Amazingly, despite all the problems, the Xbox remained a massive success throughout.
For you. World globe An icon of the world globe, indicating different international options. Get the Insider App. If it's on a crowded shelf, for example, remove the items and give it a space to itself.
Let the console cool for at least an hour before rebooting it. This is the Red Ring of Death referred to earlier. Three LEDs are the code for a general hardware failure. Before you write off your console, make sure this is the problem. Look at the power source.
There should be an LED on the brick next to the power cable that goes into the gaming device. If that LED is green, the issue is with the console.
If the LED is red or orange, unplug the power source and check the console on a different outlet. You don't need to plug it into a TV. Instead, ensure the red LEDs don't light up.
If you still see red LEDs with a green light on the power source, have the console repaired or buy a new one. If the console needs repair, remove any accessories or external hard drives.
This helps you pick up where you left off on a new Xbox if your original console can't be repaired. This means the cable connecting the Xbox to the television isn't working properly. Shut down the console and unplug the cable completely from both the television and Xbox. Wait a few minutes, and reconnect the two devices. If the cable still doesn't work properly, replacements can be found online or at any store that sells video games and video game accessories.
Not all models have this port, so check first before going to the store. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Do not completely remove the dual fan assembly yet. Its cable is still attached to the motherboard. Some fan connectors have a locking tab. If yours has a locking tab, be sure to depress it while disconnecting the fan from the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to release the clips securing the RF module shield along the top and the left edge of the RF module.
Grasp the RF module and lift it straight up to disconnect it from its socket on the motherboard. Turn the Xbox over, being careful not to let the motherboard fall out of the chassis. Be careful not to damage the sockets as you rotate the motherboard away from the metal casing. Insert the tip of a small flathead screwdriver between the X clamp and its retaining post on the heat sink.
Pry the X clamp away from its retaining post until it is lifted above the small groove cut into the retaining post. Insert your screwdriver parallel to the motherboard between the X clamp and its retaining post. When removing the last corner of the X clamp and holding the motherboard upside down, be sure to catch the GPU heat sink to avoid damage from it falling. To reinstall the X clamp, first start by attaching two corners to the posts on the heat sink.
While holding the third arm of the X clamp down against the post attached to the heat sink, use a small flathead screwdriver to pry the X clamp away from the heat sink post. As you pry, press down on the arm of the X clamp until you "walk" it down into the retaining groove cut into the post attached to the heat sink.
Before reinstalling the GPU heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you need to mount the heat sink back onto the motherboard, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy. If necessary, insert your screwdriver parallel to the motherboard between the X clamp and its retaining post. Twist the screwdriver to fully release the X clamp from its retaining post. When removing the last corner of the X clamp and holding the motherboard upside down, be sure to catch the CPU heat sink to avoid damage from it falling.
The X-clamps are not reused when installing the red ring of death fix kit. Now that the heat sinks are off both processors, use a plastic spudger to remove all of the old thermal paste residue from the faces of both processors and the inner faces of the heat sinks.
Work slowly as you remove the old residue, as many sensitive components are soldered near the processors. If damaged, you may need a whole new motherboard. It is best to use a solvent such as ArctiClean to dissolve the old thermal paste and remove all residue before applying new paste.
Alternatively, you can use a mild solvent such as a high purity rubbing alcohol. You can also use many classic dry-deoxidating sprays: spray it on the paste then rub it; you will remove the paste almost effortlessly and with no residues.
Now is also a good time to clean any dust out from between the fins of both heat sinks. After cleaning, the mating faces of the heat sinks and the processors should look as shown. Before proceeding any further, now is the perfect time to reflow the solder on the motherboard. Reflowing provides a higher chance of success in fixing red ring failures and is not hard to accomplish.
All that is required is a heat gun. We have a guide that makes it easy. If your motherboard does not have RAM chips on its underside like the board pictured, skip this step. Peel off the four silicone thermal pads stuck to the RAM chips on the bottom of the board. If you have never applied thermal paste, we have a guide that makes it easy. After applying thermal paste to the processors, it is time to reattach the heat sinks one at a time. In our case, we attached the CPU heat sink first.
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